Anise

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Anise, scientifically known as Pimpinella anisum L., is an aromatic herb celebrated for its distinctive licorice-like flavor. 

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There is no flavor that reminds me more of my mother than anise. She is the only person I have known whose favorite candy is soft black licorice. Anything that even hints of anise made her close her eyes and breathe deeply: Ellen Fataโ€™s frosted anise Christmas cookies, Sfouf cake, Ka’ak, Lebanese Fig Jam. Needless to say, we are not one of those homes that finishes all but the black jelly beans at Easter.

Momโ€™s devotion to anise went back to her very early childhood, so itโ€™s easy to see why it is a flavor that resonates. Her father, Richard Abowd, was a candy maker. He had a little candy shop and in the shop he had candy that was scooped from glass vessels. You picked your candies and he put them into a paper bag, and off you went popping one candy after another into your mouth. Even though Richard moved on to another business, a hotel, by the time my mom came along, he kept up his tradition of bringing home sweets. That always included bags of black licorice, so I gather that eating anything flavored with anise transported my mother back to her home on Maple Street, where her memories remained most vivid.

Aromatic anise is trademark Lebanese, in our sweets but also in our drink. Like potent and delicious Arak, which is better left for a post on another day (or late evening) when weโ€™ll take a few burning sips straight up and talk about whatโ€™s on our minds. Meanwhile weโ€™ll settle for a few generous tablespoons of aniseed in our fig jam for that similar flavor of licorice, and talk about whatโ€™s on our minds nonetheless, while eating it straight up with a spoon.

Mahleb and anise for Lebanese ka'ik

Origin and Cultivation

Originating in the Eastern Mediterranean region and the Middle East, anise has been used since the days of the Ancient Egyptians and Roman times. It’s celebrated for both culinary and medicinal purposes. The plant thrives in warm, dry places with sandy soils. Those are ideal conditions for its sturdy plants bearing small yellowish-white flowers and seed pods. These seed pods, which contain small yellowish seeds, are the key to its flavor and culinary uses.

A member of the Umbelliferae family, the herbaceous plant has a long history dating back to ancient times and remains a favorite in kitchens around the world today. From the sandy soils of Southern Europe to traditional Middle Eastern dishes, anise is a must-have ingredient to get its distinctive flavor.

Bright orange cake slice on a cake server with the cake in the pan behind it

Cooking with anise

One of the most popular ways to enjoy anise is by incorporating its seeds into a variety of dishes, adding that sweet licorice flavor. Its aromatic nature makes it a versatile ingredient in both sweet and savory dishes, adding depth and complexity.

Aniseed is either used whole in recipes, just adding the small seeds as they are, or ground. I always grind my aniseed just before adding it to recipes for the most aromatic anise flavor.

Anise seeds and anise powder are used extensively in recipes across different cultures. In Italian cuisine, ground anise seed enhances the flavor of Italian biscotti and cookies like the ones Mrs. Fata. My sister now makes them, too. In Indian cuisine, anise is a key ingredient in masala blends and tea. Here it offers that licorice flavor that complements other spices and herbs.

In cooking in the Middle East regions, whole star anise and small seed pods flavor stews, rice, and meat dishes. It provides a fragrant aroma and a distinctive flavor that elevates everyday meals. The seeds can also be added to bread doughs such as ka’ak and other cookies and baked goods.

Anise-infused herbal tea has that licorice-like taste and is considered a calming beverage that help with digestion. Anise aromatic oil, including the essential oil of anise, is also used to flavor liqueurs and spirits. Those include Lebanese arak, ouzo, sambuca, and anisette.

Cooking Tips for Using Anise

  • Use ground anise seed for baking cookies, bread, or adding to herbal teas.
  • Add whole star anise or Chinese star anise to soups, stews, or rice dishes for a fragrant aroma.
  • Store anise seeds in small jars or zip top bags in a dry place to preserve their flavor. Grind the seeds just before adding to recipes for flavor, or in advance to save time.
  • Incorporate freshly ground anise into spice blends like a ka’ak spice blend, for that distinct licorice flavor.

Substitutions for Anise

Okay, not everyone loves anise like my mother did and like so many of us do!! My brother Chris will walk back out the door if he comes into the kitchen and anise is happening. That guy is very certain that he does not want anise in anything. Substitutes will depend on what recipe you are making. I try to compensate with flavors like vanilla, cinnamon, allspice, fennel seeds (but similar flavor here), sweet cumin, nutmeg. This is not a 1-1 substitution, though. There is often a generous amount of anise in recipes to be sure the flavor is strong enough. There are significant differences in amounts, with just small amounts of the substitutes, again depending on the recipe.

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3 Comments

  1. paul zeidan says:

    I like black licorice as well, but I’m lebanese and I love Arak. i enjoy your posts

    1. Maureen Abood says:

      Thank you Paul! Arak is soooo gooood!!

  2. Jerry Wakeen says:

    Well now you know two people that like soft back licorice. I think it is a waste of calories to eat the red so called licorice (which my wife prefers). A boy hood friend hates the anise flavor, I once bought him a bag of black jelly beans as a joke.

    I find Arak too strong, not alcohol strong (which it is also) but anise flavoring strong. Over the years I have taken to adding a little sweet Anisette Liquor to vodka, it is much sweeter and easier to drink, also you can vary the anise flavor strength by using more or less Anisette. You can also dilute it with water if straight vodka is too much.

    Which reminds me of my own unique invention. You have heard of B and B of course (Benedictine and Brandy). Well you are now privileged to know the inventor of B and A, which is something I started to do years ago along the lines of adding Anisette to vodka. I just add a bit of Anisette to Brandy and call it B and A! Again you can vary the strength and it is very good!

    As long as I am giving my secrets away I will also throw in a personal addition that I manage when making barbecue sauce. I start with “off the shelf sauce”, a two or three bottles, add half a jar of grape jelly for sweetening and thickening, onion flakes, garlic powder, just about anything you feel like throwing in…..but the secret is adding fennel seed! I got that idea because I love the taste of the fennel (sort of a mild anise taste) in Italian sausage….used in pizza. I simmer the whole batch in a sauce pan while grilling the meat and brush it on at the end of the grilling as the meat starts to cool down over a lowered flame. You would be amazed at how it sticks to the meat (because of the grape jelly I suppose), and the fennel seeds by then have softened and have given up their flavor to the sauce.

    Maureen, if your grandfather Richard was a candy maker, why haven’t you by now copied the Mackinaw Island fudge maker’s secrets? (There are about 15 fudge shops on Mackinaw if I remember right, maybe it was 50). You promised!!!
    best, Jerry Wakeen