The technique for making croissants is more of a time commitment than it iscomplicated; plan on a full day, much of it spent chilling the dough between roll-outs. Or use an overnight in between. Once that’s done and the croissants are shaped, they need to rise for another couple of hours. I relied on the techniques I learned in culinary school, as well as the recipe and techniques at my trusty Cook’s Illustrated. Use European-style butter to encourage flakiness and enhance the flavor of your pastry. The total cook time of 48 minutes is for baking the 4 sheet pans, one at a time, for 8-12 minutes each. Double ovens will take half this amount of time.
In a small saucepan, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium-low heat.Add the milk and warm to 85 to 90°F.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk the yeast into the butter-milk mixture. Add the flour, sugar, and salt and knead with the dough hook on low speed until the dough forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Increase the speed to medium-low and knead the dough for another minute, or until the dough is no longer sticky, and is smooth and soft to the touch. Remove the bowl from the mixer and cover it, with the dough in it, with plastic wrap. Set this aside to rest for 30 minutes.
Place a piece of plastic wrap on the counter and transfer the dough to it. Shape the dough by patting it with your hands into a 10- by 7-inch rectangular block about 1 inch thick. Wrap the dough securely in the plastic (use an additional piece of plastic if needed to cover the dough completely). Chill on a flat surface, or pan or plate, in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
Meanwhile, make the butter block. Line the counter with a sheet of plastic wrap and arrange the cold butter in a square-like shape (cut it if needed; if using sticks, line the three up in a row). Hold a rolling pin by the handles and press the length of the pin with strength into the butter to meld the pieces together and flatten it into an 8-inch square that is ½ to 1-inch thick. Use your hands or a bench scraper to help shape and smooth the sides of the butter, keeping a towel handy to dry your hands as you go. Wrap the butter tightly in plastic, using another sheet if needed, then smooth the butter all over. Chill the butter on a plate in the refrigerator for at least 45 minutes.
To laminate the dough, place the chilled dough in the freezer for 30 minutes. On a lightly floured counter, roll the dough to a 17-by 8-inch rectangle. Unwrap the cold butter and place it in the center of the dough rectangle. Fold the long sides of the dough up over the butter to meet in the middle over the butter, and pinch the seam tightly together. Use your hands and the rolling pin to seal seam. Pinch the dough together on the open sides and use the rolling pin to seal and flatten the side seams. Roll the packet lengthwise into a 24- by 8-inch rectangle, starting by gently pressing the rolling pin into the dough across the packet to get the rolling started. Use your hands to shape the dough to keep the edges straight and the corners as squared off as possible. Fold the rectangle like a business letter in thirds to form an 8-inch square. Wrap the square tightly in plastic and chill for 30 minutes.
Unwrap the dough and transfer it to the large, lightly floured counter space. With the opening of the square facing to the right like a book, roll it out again with the long side facing. you, starting by pressing with the pin across the dough, into a 24- by 8-inch rectangle. Fold the dough like a business letter into thirds to form an 8-inch square. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and chill for 2 to 24 hours.
To shape the dough, you’ll need a large work surface. Place the chilled dough in the freezer for 30 minutes. On a lightly floured counter, roll the dough toan 18- by 16-inch rectangle, with the long side facing you and the edge of the counter. Use a ruler and a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the dough in half lengthwise so there is an upper and lower rectangle in front of you. To cut triangles to shape into crescents, measure and mark 3-inch spaces along the top long side each rectangle of dough. Along the lower long edge of the rectangles, move in 1 1/2 inches, mark it, then mark every 3 inches along the edge. Cut the dough in triangles from the top marks to the lower marks. Save any scraps from the sides of the dough.
Line 4 sheet pans with parchment. In a small bowl, combine all but a teaspoon of the za’atar with the olive oil to create a lightly dampened, but not wet, mixture. Cut a 1/2-inch slit in the middle of the short side of the dough triangle, and gently stretch the sides apart. Gently stretch the triangle from the long tip end as well. Place 1/2 teaspoon of the za’atar just under the cut on the triangle. Fold the short edge over the za’atar, then roll it up half way. Stretch the tip of the triangle again gently, and finish rolling the crescent up. Finish with the tip of the triangle underneath the crescent and place it on the parchment-lined pan. Curl the right and left sides of the dough together to form an arched crescent. Repeat with the remaining triangles, placing 6 on each sheet pan. Cover lightly with plastic wrap and letthe croissants rise until they are doubled in size, 2 1/2 to 3 hours.
To bake the croissants, preheat the oven to 425°F. Whisk th eegg with a pinch of salt and a teaspoon of water to make the egg wash. Lightly brush the tops of the croissants with the egg wash, and sprinkle a little line of za’atar over the top. Baking one sheet pan at a time, place a pan in the oven and reduce the temperature to 400°F. Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until the croissants are golden brown. Cool slightly before serving.
Notes
Croissant Method Summary
To make the croissants’ flakey layers, the dough is “laminated.” This means a pliable block of butter is wrapped and sealed inside of the dough, which is then rolled out in to big rectangles and folded several times, chilling at length in between to keep the butter from melting into the dough. Long triangles are cut from the dough, filled with za'atar, rolled up, and then left to rise before baking.
To use the Dough Scraps
Butter a muffin tin. Press together then roll the croissant dough scraps into a rectangle. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Roll this up like a jelly roll, divide and cut into several pieces. Place the buns in a buttered muffin tin, rise for 2 hours. Bake at 425°F for about 7 minutes or until golden brown.
To store the croissants
Store the croissants in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. To reheat, place the croissants on a parchment-lined sheet pan in a 200°F oven for about 5 minutes. Freeze the croissants in freezer bags or an airtight container for up to 6 months. Warm from frozen or thaw first.The croissants can be frozen before rising after they’re shaped. They’ll need an additional half-hour of rising time, about 3 hours, before baking.